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High-class Hathaway
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| Blissfield
landmark offers exquisite dining. by
John E. Clark |
Hathaway
House
424 W. Adrian St.
Blissfield, Mich.
517-486-2141
Tue-Thu: 5 p.m. - 9 p.m.
Fri-Sat: 11:30 a.m. - 10 p.m.
Sun: 1 p.m. - 8 p.m.
Reservations accepted, Business casual
In 1836, a young David Carpenter left his family home in New
York State with only $25 but lots of ambition. Carpenter settled
in Toledo and worked as a clerk at a general store. In 1838 he
moved to Blissfield and opened his own dry-goods store. Wanting
to build the finest home between Toledo and Buffalo, Carpenter
built his new home in the Greek-revival style in 1851. After his
death in 1891, the house went through many years of change and
ownership from family members to non-family members, and was
converted into a restaurant after the death of prominent owners
George and Prudence Hathaway. The restaurant changed management
several times, until Sept. 1, 2003, when Tim and Patricia Coonan
took ownership of both the House and Stable, keeping the homey
feel that the original owners instilled.
Chef Tim Coonan brings to the Hathaway House, an impressive list
of experiences in international dining establishments, including
the Michelin two-star Chez Messonier and L’Ermitage, both in
Provence, France. After his sojourn in Provence, he returned to
the states, graduated at the top of his class from the
prestigious Johnson & Wales University, and in 1999 became
partner and executive chef at P.F. Chang’s in Chicago. His
wife Tricia’s experience is equally impressive. A University
of Michigan graduate, she has been dining room manager at the
Common Grill in Chelsea, and manager and assistant to the chef
and general manager at Spiaggia in Chicago.
All of the Coonans’ experiences and talents, combined with the
charm and beauty of the home, create a dining experience worth
the trip north. Ours started with an appetizer from the newly
created menu. The savory caramelized onion tart with watercress,
pistachio and orange sections ($6) was not just a delight to the
eye, it was a full spectrum of flavors to the palate. Since
summer is the season for cold soup, we indulged in the chilled
cucumber-potato soup with cured lox and dill crème fraiche ($5)
an unbeatable combination of flavor and texture. The pear and
endive salad with blue cheese, walnuts, golden raisins and
sherry vinaigrette ($5) and poppy seed chive crepes ($7) were
also spectacular.
Selecting an entrée is a pleasant chore due to the fine
selection of interesting and different dishes. We decided on the
Cape Cod bluefish served with a Michigan cherry brown butter
vinaigrette, couscous and wilted arugula ($22) and the roasted
quail, pancetta with homegrown sage leaves ($27). Each was made
with visual intent, as well as complex flavors and aroma. Many
of the dishes include ingredients that are locally grown or come
from the chef’s own herb garden on the grounds of the home.
Cruising the list of Chef Tim’s fantastic desserts, we shared
the fior di latte, a citrus-infused milk custard with fresh
berries and berry coulis ($6.50) topped with fresh mint. It was
the finale to an evening filled with a fantastic cuisine and
gracious service.
For more casual dining, the Stable and Tavern offers homemade
pizzas, soups, salads, sandwiches and Tavern dinners starting at
$11.95. Beverages at the Tavern include a separate beer menu
filled with selections from Michigan and Midwest microbrews as
well as a large selection of imported brews.
Watch for our upcoming review. |
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